BANARAS : A Civilisational City

This is Manickarnika, where death is auspicious,
 where life is fruitful,
where one grazes the pastures of heaven. 
There is no tirtha like Manikarnika,
There is no city like Kashi,
There is no linga like visheshwara, 
not in the whole universe.

Banaras: City of Light is written by Diana L. Eck. Before we proceed further to review the book, it is pertinent to discuss the credentials of the author. She is a professor of comparative religion and Indian studies in the Harvard University. She has written books on spirituality, religion, especially on India. The book was published in 1981. 

The book is divided in eight chapters dealing with different aspects of the city. The chapters range from discussion on Shiva temples of Banaras to the events, on Ganges and the seasons. The book richly contains appendix and a detailed notes and glossary which gives it a complete treat for someone who is new to India or wants to explore the city in a holistic manner on its own. The author has not limited herself to the hearsay but studied Indian texts and learned Sanskrit. She got trained under noted academicians of the time in BHU and pandits having command over texts. The references from recent times as well as Kashi Khandas, puranas call for a deeper study of the book. 

At one place, the book originally distinguishes the type of Brahmins who have their own cutout tasks like Pandits (teachers), Pujari (temple priest), Pandas (Pilgrim priest), Mahant‘s (heads of large Temple complex) and Vyas (story tellers) which is not even known to most of the Indians. 

The scholarship of the book can be caused from the fact that it has reproduced maps from the times when Ghazi invaded India years and accounts of British officers and historical data available in Gazateers and journals of James Princep. Though lot of changes have happened on the ground level stii it gives a fair idea of how the city looked like in 1800s.

Mark Twain once wrote "Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together!". Lewis Mumford once remarked about Benaras that "it is a energy converted into culture."

The author while emphasising on the need for taking religious trips for grahasthas mentions that God Indra in Aitreya Brahmana urges Rohita:

"There is no happiness for him who does not travel, Rohita! Thus, we have heard. Living in the society of men, the best man becomes a sinner... therefore wander!

 The feet of the wanderer are like the flower, his soul is growing and reaping the fruit; and all his sins are destroyed by his fatigues in wandering. Therefore, wander!

The fortune of him who is sitting, sits; it rises when he rises; it sleeps when he sleeps; it moves when he moves. Therefore, wander!

The book introduces names of Kashi which I've heard for first time even though I've visited more than a dozen time. It includes, Kashi : the city of Light, (Kash is a long grass with silver colored flower); Varanasi : the area lying betweeen Varuna and Assi river (Banaras is derived from the corrupted name of Baranasi), Avimukta : the never forsaken (Shiva never leaves the city, the concept of Kshetra Sanyas is discussed which a unique concept); Anandvana : the forest of Bliss (where Sat, Chit, ananda are always present); Rudravasa : The city of Shiva; the Mahashamshana : the great cremation ground (where dead can be cremated anywhere and at anytime. Infact it is the only place where Hindus can cremate even at night). Sham means shava (corpse) and shana refers to Shayana (a bed). 

In the chapter 2, "Banaras in historical Perspective",  the evolution of the city from Aryan times to Mauryan - Guptan empire days and upto Muslim rulers and colonial rule is discussed. It was one of the Mahajanapadas. The author mentions that once the muslim age started the greatest temples of Krittivasa, Omkara, Mahadeva, Madhyamaheshwara, Vishveshvara, Bindu Madhava and Kal Bhairava were destroyed and most of these temples didn't saw resurgence after that. Few idols were hidden in nearby houses but most of the temples were razed to the ground. Later on the Maharajas of Benaras, the Singh family and Marathas especially rebuilt Benaras as it was this city which sheltered Shiva ji. 

In chapter 3 "The City of Shiva" the author devotes entire chapter to the Lord Shiva. It is for him that he "challenges any faciles distinctions between sacred and profance, rich and poor, high and low."  It is here where the author introduces to the concept of Chala and achala lingas, kshanika linga, svayambhu and sthapita lingas. A basic introduction to all the Shiva temples in the city is in this chapter. from Avimukteswara to Kedareshwara. Chapter 4 titled "The sacred Circle of All the Gods", the discussion ranges from King Divodasa to Gods and Goddesses' residing in the city like Annapurana, Shitala, Durga, Sankata Devi, Vishalakshi, Ganesh, Adi Keshava, Vishnu. 

Chapter 5 is on the lifeline of Benaras and North India, River Ganga titled "The River Ganges and the Great Ghats". The author quotes from Kashi Khanda as "I am Vishwanath, the Lord, Kashi is the light of liberation. The waves of the River of Heavenare the wine of immortality. What can these three not provide?" The introduction to the tirthas and ghats along the river are revelation with brief histroy of each major ghat like Panchganga ghat, Kedara ghat and the greatest of all The Manikarnika ghat. 

In "Seasons and Times" the relevance of seasons and festivals falling in that particular period are mentioned. Like chaturmasa, Kajali Tij, Lolarka Shasthi, Sorahia Mela, Shravan maas celebrations and Annakuta. While in "City of All India" and "City of the Good Life" and "City of Death and Liberation" the general information of the city and scriptures mentioning the mahatmya of the city. 

The 6 appendixes that follow the main text enlists some important factual information which is further strengthened by glossary and notes. For someone who intends to visit Banaras or not, if he wants to know about the oldest civilisational city in detail, this is a must read. It is  must have in collection of books.